Attending Slow Food’s biennial conference Terra Madre in Turin, Italy has been a dream for me ever since I heard over 15 years ago that there was a gathering of like minded food activists from around the world talking about how to take care of communities and the planet with food. It was an absolute honor to represent the Slow Food Denver community as a delegate alongside our Programs & Outreach Coordinator Mary Cappelletti this year. I went fully wide eyed ready to absorb all of the goodness, wisdom, and deliciousness that was offered. Of course, it did not disappoint as I left inspired and ready for even more possibilities to be produced from our Chapter here in Denver.
There were ample opportunities to connect and I will cherish every discussion with the staff, farmers, producers, and volunteers from around the world who are working on good, clean, and fair food for all. Being there I better understood the breadth of impact that is happening everywhere to be in collaboration with the earth, to push back on the industrialized food system, and to simply understand as this year’s theme stated that: “We Are Nature”.
Through the Salone del Gusto markets, the majority of producers and food artisans were from the many different regions of Italy. However, there were a handful of booths from countries around the world. The North American booth was a collaboration between Slow Food Turtle Island, SFUSA, Slow Food Canada, and Slow Food Mexico to be a gathering place for delegates while hosting conversations, tastings, and workshops. This booth was a hub buzzing with ideas, deliciousness, and collaboration. On Thursday, Mary and I took our place in this booth as we presented to a group of leaders & volunteers from the US about our Seed to Plate children’s cooking classes and FED Workshops. It was an intimate exchange where we were able to answer questions and talk about all that we do as a Chapter in Denver.
We also gathered for a large meeting of North American delegates where we heard from Slow Food founder Carlo Petrini, Slow Food International President Edward Mukiibi, and more leaders. They talked about the importance of the Slow Food movement in North America as well as bringing Terra Madres America to Sacramento next September.
Mary and I attended presentations about the seafood industry, Slow Drinks movement, the food movements of the Afro-Diaspora community, the new slaves of consumerism, how governments are involved in the Slow Food movement, and more talks, as well as a tasting from Saudi Arabia. While the majority of the sessions were in Italian, English and other language translation services were prevalent throughout the event.
It was a delight to take a “Walk Through the Park” aka the inspiring foraging class throughout Turin’s Parco Dora led by Alexis Nikole of Black Forager and Linda Black Elk as they shared their knowledge and wisdom about what grows wild and freely in between sidewalks and industrial areas. Many of the plants I have spotted in my own yard and throughout Denver, but seeing these plants through their lens, diving into each plant deeper to learn their benefits and uses was a beautiful experience to share and I look forward to more foraging.
My overall reflection was noticing that the United States has a strong focus on healthy eating and food access. In the most subtle contrast, Terra Madre focused on us as eaters, growers, and producers and our role as an integral part of the natural food system. When we place ourselves within nature we more easily become part of the solution that expands beyond our community to encompass the health of the planet.
Clearly healthy eating and food access are serious issues in the US that we need to continue to work on. Through Slow Food Denver this is happening on the ground with our continued support of local gardens & farms that produce seasonal foods as well as collaborating with organizations redirecting food waste to underserved communities. This also needs to happen with legislative policy changes that will allow for shifts towards a better, more regenerative food system. I am eager for our government to redirect efforts back to the Farm Bill and the real possibilities of focusing on regenerative agriculture, not just Big Ag subsidies and to see more local initiatives revolving around improving food systems.
These reflections also made me feel very proud of the work that Slow Food Denver has done even before I started with the organization. SFD has had attention on addressing issues of food equity and justice by working a bit further upstream. Our Seed to Plate program is teaching children how to cook from the garden and now our FED Workshops are teaching adults how to cook, preserve, garden, and be a better food consumer. As the proverb about fishing goes, our programs offer lessons for a lifetime of cooking, rather than food for a single meal.
Finally, we were in Italy! The food culture has the reputation that it does because food there is a fully immersive, beautiful, joyful experience. Meals are unfussy with simple grown or produced with care ingredients that arrive on a plate with few other adornments. Towards the end of our time, we were sampling cheese from a producer and he suddenly handed us hand pies that another producer had shared with him. Then he said something that I will not forget, even though I can’t articulate exactly what he said it. As we marveled at his sharing of so much food, he said something to the effect of “well, it isn’t a meal until you share it with someone else and that is why I share it with you now."
If I have yet to inspire you to add Terra Madre in Italy to your bucket list, I hope that you will at least take a bit more time to consider that every bite we eat is because We Are Nature and start noticing the places in everyday life where that shows up.
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